Opener runs but the door doesn’t move
First suspect: your door was released from the opener. Then a stripped gear inside the opener, a snapped chain or belt, or a broken spring.
What to do right now
- Step 1 Look up at the rail. Is the door’s arm hanging loose from the trolley?
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Step 2 Check the spring above the door from the floor. A gap means it broke. - Step 3 No gap, cables in place, door fully closed? Give the wall button one press.
- Step 4 If the trolley won’t catch the arm, or the motor just hums, stop and call.
Likely causes
- Door released from opener Someone pulled the red cord, and the arm hangs free of the trolley.
- Stripped drive gear The motor hums or runs its cycle, and the chain or belt never moves. from$199
- Snapped chain or belt The chain or belt hangs slack from the rail or lies on the floor. from$199
- Spring snapped above the door The opener strains, raises the door a few inches, then quits. from$249
You’ll know the exact price at the door, before work begins.
When to call us
Call if the arm is hooked on and your door still won’t move, or the trolley won’t catch the arm. We take calls every day from 7 AM to 9 PM.
Common questions
Why does my garage door opener run but the door won’t open?
Either the door is unhooked from the opener or the opener’s drive has failed. Look at the rail: an arm hanging loose from the trolley means someone pulled the red release cord. If you see the arm hooked on, a worn-out gear inside the opener is the usual cause.
Should I fix the gear or get a new opener?
A gear kit falls under opener repair, from $199, and it’s usually worth doing. If the opener is old and its board or motor is going too, a new one is the better buy, from $695 installed. When it’s on the truck, it goes in on the same visit.